Monday
Nov222004

« Day 4: Fort Bragg to Ferndale »

Be sure to look at the Treehugger Tour Photo Gallery with great captions to enhance these entries.

close up of the glass and debris on glass beach in fort bragg.Glass shards polished down to near gems on the beach at Fort BraggThis morning we had breakfast in our little cottage by the sea. After a diet of beef jerky, Balance bars, and cookies, it was nice to get in on some real food—Chex cereal! The cottage was nice and cute, and we were joking about moving in there on account of it really being a tiny apartment. The front desk clerk was real nice and suggested a few things to do in the area. We took her up on visiting Glass Beach, which apparently used to be a garbage dump and now is an interesting graveyard for all sorts of items—car parts, industrial junk, and lots of glass, all broken down and smoothed out to pebbles from constant crashing waves. There were car parts fused into rock, and partially exposed and rusted from the waves slowly eating away at the rocks, turning them slowly into sand.

Today started off being coastal driving, along the CA-1 from Ft. Bragg on up to wherever it splits off to the rocky and forested parts. We took lots of pictures all the way along, and stopped into Legett to drive through the Chandelier Tree. Our little PT Cruiser fit perfectly in the space notched out of the tree's massive base. There was a little duck pond and an open field next to the tree where I milled around, the silence of it all being a sheer delight. There were a few more tourist stops, like at the One Log House where in a single piece of redwood lumber, a couple dedicated souls had carved out an entire living space, complete with bedroom, kitchen, bath, and living room. In today's market, the price would be outfuckingrageous.

Near dark we finally got to our destination in the Victorian town of Ferndale. All the weather so far had been perfectly clear. That was a surprise to me, because I had thought that in northern CA in the fall, it would be cold and gray and rainy. Well, drving into the area around Ferndale was the first I saw of that weather that I had been anticipating. We got here at dusk, and it was cloudy and misty, coupled with the fading sunlight. All this over the pastoral fields of cattle (we call them "moocows") and rustic old barns and sheds, and Victorian houses. It was really starting to seem like my vacation as I had seen it in my head.

Ferndale was the place where the movie The Majestic was shot. We saw that movie on our first date on the first of January in 2002, so we were keen to come to a town like the one in the movie. Only when we were looking for places online did we find that this town is where it was shot! We're at the Victorian Inn here, where there is a late 19th century hotel that still looks the part to a remarkable degree (except for the computer here where I am typing from). No TV is good enough for me. In fact, the whole place is funky and old flavored enough that as we took a nap yesterday when we got here, the whole town's power crashed and restarted a couple times, the long outage being for a half hour or so. Total darkness around town, but we were here, struggling to take showers and get ready to go out to dinner.

Oh, dinner...

Ah, the restaurant downstairs was the only place to eat in all the ten blocks of this town. So we went there and got meatloaf and mashed taters and veggies, and a pitcher of beer. Kelli opted for wine, as she usually does, and I got left with the beer. We had this tasty dipping oil and garlic dish for our bread, and well, I dipped and drank too enthusiastically. That bread and oil would have been a big meal with the main course, but I totally went to town on the bread and beer. Oh, on the way out of the restaurant, I was starting to feel pretty messed up. A pitcher in an hour is new even for me! I was just bloated beyond belief from all those carb-y things. But it was ohhhhhhhhhh so yummy. The beer was good, and it would have been better if I had half as much! Then we went back and rather ridiculously tried to act like serious people as we dabbled with exercises from a book we are using as part of our counseling process. Hah!

It was a very long night of gastric distress and garlic breath. The bed was nice though—there were about six pillows and almost as many blankets. Pretty damned posh and would have been a nice night's rest if I hadn't had to get up to go to the bathroom so many times. Oh well.

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